Kanpai
The History of Sake
Eric C. RathExplores the evolution, history, cultural significance and global rise of Japan’s national drink.
Sake, Japan’s iconic rice-based alcoholic drink, has been central to Japanese culture for over 1,300 years. Traditionally made with rice, water and kōji mould, it was consumed in early brewpubs and was vital to samurai rituals and festivals. Sake’s story includes homebrewers like clan matriarchs, ancient princes and modern political activists who defied laws to keep homebrewing alive. Temples refined sake-making techniques, laying the foundation for a thriving industry that became a major economic force for shoguns and the modern state.
Kanpai is the first history of sake in English, exploring its evolution from homebrew to flavoured varieties, its cultural significance and global rise, including its growing popularity and production in North America and Europe. The book also shows how sake has shaped Japanese food, society and traditions.
Explores the evolution, history, cultural significance and global rise of Japan’s national drink.
Sake, Japan’s iconic rice-based alcoholic drink, has been central to Japanese culture for over 1,300 years. Traditionally made with rice, water and kōji mould, it was consumed in early brewpubs and was vital to samurai rituals and festivals. Sake’s story includes homebrewers like clan matriarchs, ancient princes and modern political activists who defied laws to keep homebrewing alive. Temples refined sake-making techniques, laying the foundation for a thriving industry that became a major economic force for shoguns and the modern state.
Kanpai is the first history of sake in English, exploring its evolution from homebrew to flavoured varieties, its cultural significance and global rise, including its growing popularity and production in North America and Europe. The book also shows how sake has shaped Japanese food, society and traditions.
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Japan’s national beverage has achieved global renown, but its origins and practices are still shrouded in mystery. For those who want to learn more about sake, there can be no better guide than Eric C. Rath. This authoritative and entertaining book leads us from the drinking games of medieval samurai to the rope curtains of modern izakaya.
'Jeffrey M. Pilcher, University of Toronto
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There are many books on sake these days, but none like Kanpai, which takes us through the annals of the history of sake, from medieval temple sake recipes to socio-political factors that influenced sake legislation, and from the history of izakaya to the industry today outside of Japan: the breadth and scope of sake lore makes for a fascinating read.
'John Gauntner, author of Sake Confidential and co-founder and managing editor of Sake Today
NOTE TO READERS
INTRODUCTION
ONE CLOUDY BEGINNINGS, 1000 BCE TO 1000 CE
TWO ENLIGHTENED BREWS: MEDIEVAL TOWN AND TEMPLE SAKE BREWERIES, 1400–1600
THREE DRINKING IN ANCIENT AND MEDIEVAL JAPAN, 700–1600
FOUR THE EARLY MODERN SAKE INDUSTRY, 1600–1868
FIVE THE RISE OF NIHONSHU, 1868–1989
SIX A BRIEF HISTORY OF IZAKAYA
SEVEN THE QUEST FOR ‘REAL SAKE’, 1970–2020
EIGHT SAKE IN NORTH AMERICA, 1908–TODAY
GLOSSARY
REFERENCES
SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
PHOTO ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INDEX
Eric C. Rath is Professor of History at the University of Kansas. His books include Oishii: The History of Sushi (Reaktion Books, 2021).
